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Sunday, September 25, 2011

Peacock Pearls from India

While I was in India in December 2009 with my colleagues from the Halma plc companies, we took a break from the work we were doing in the executive development program to vist a bazaar where vendors were selling distinctive Indian goods.

Indian Bazaar

As you can imagine, I found the jewelry they had for sale very interesting, and I stopped at several booths to see the offerings.

Jewelry Booth at Indian Bazaar

At one booth, I found pearls. These were on my list, and I am always sure to bring a list, because most bead shows have such an overwhelming variety of goods, that it is easy to forget your intentions. The same held true at this bazaar. There were several wonderful things from which to choose.

Pearls from several geographical sources are drilled in India, and I wanted to do some pearl knotting. When I found five strands of beautiful peacock pearls, the bargaining began.

After my purchase, one colleague mentioned he wanted pearls for his daughter, and that he would want to give her a necklace. I promised I would send him a list of other materials he would need, as well as directions I knew were on the Internet for pearl knotting. I sold him a strand at a price that was a 67% gross margin over the price I had just paid.

My colleagues thought this was hilarious, as you must remember we are all business professionals. To us, buying low and selling at a margin comes as easily as breathing. It seems even though we had a night off, it was business as usual.

They asked me then what I was going to do with the pearls, and I said make jewelry. Again, the laughter came. They wanted to know what the design would be. I had no clue. That is not how I design. I promised them I would send pictures of the jewelry when it was done.

Yes, I know it is almost two years hence, but sometimes the ideas do not come as quickly as the purchases. I thought I would incorporate a little pearl knotting design tips in the telling of this story, and show how that leads to the jewelry. At the same time, my colleagues can see what I did with these pearls.

First, pearl knotting is not just for pearls. The reason you knot pearls or beads is to protect them. The knotting material, which is traditionally silk, can be nylon (for strength), a Spectra-based thread (like Tough Thread), or cording. Silk, with a thin needle, comes on cards in various colors, but also various sizes of cording. The diameter of silk threads sold on spools are from 0.20mm, which is very thin, to 0.419 mm (size FFF). If you buy silk cording on cards, the thread diameter is from 0.20mm up to over 1.0 mm (Size 16).
You can string pearls on flexible wire, but if you do, you lose the drape you will get from silk. So knotting pearls with silk gives you a necklace that has the wonderful drape of silk. And if the necklace breaks, you will lose only one pearl at most. Knotting pearls is a way to protect your investment in these beautiful gems.
Of course, there are drawbacks: the silk needs to be treated correctly. You don't want to get it wet, because unlike nylon, it will not last long if you do. You don't want chemicals on it, so you spray your perfume on yourself and let it dry before you put on your pearls. This careful treatment of the silk extends to the pearls at the same time, but even the best of care will not protect the silk from wear. Your necklaces will eventually have to be re-knotted.

Decades ago, I was in the Bahamas buying jewelry, and nearly passed up the chance to buy a necklace and earring set made from black coral. I was walking away because I thought black onyx looks the same, and I always find a necklace like that. The vendor called out to me and told me that the coral reefs were dying, and that the purchase would an investment, as the black coral was becoming rare. The necklace was on monofiliment, had gold beads, and was beautiful, and so I took her advice and bought it. Black coral is much lighter in weight than black onyx, and so wearing it is more comfortable.
After 35 years of wear, the gold beads were misshapened enough to make the necklace unattractive. I cut it apart, and then knotted it with black silk, replacing the gold beads. I kept the original design:

Black Coral and Gold Knotted Necklace

The necklace was certainly an investment when I bought it, but with the coral beads now knotted with silk, I have added to its value. This great momento from that trip now hangs with a fabulous drape.
So, what did I do with the peacock pearls I bought in India? The first necklace, I used white silk cord, size 6, with the pearls and some Swarovski Dorado gold crystals:

Peacock Pearl Knotted Necklace with

The color of the thread makes a big difference. The white thread is part of the design. When I used blue thread (not cord, because that makes a difference as well), I have a traditional pearl necklace, as shown below. This one will become part of my personal collection, as I will keep it to remind me of India:

Peacock Pearl Knotted Necklace-Traditional

Nothing, in my opinion, is so beautiful as a traditional pearl necklace. There are other ways to design, especially today when we have pearls in so many different shapes. This next one uses coin pearls with the same peacock pearls from India breaking up the design:

Peacock and Coin Pearl Knotted Necklace

To show what these three would look like together:

Three Peacock Pearl Knotted Necklaces Together

That gives you an idea of how three necklaces made from the same pearls, with different pearls and crystals added, can give you fashion options. I would wear these three together on white. White velvet would be gorgeous, and since I have returned to sewing, I bet I could pull that ensemble together.
Finally, to show you the knotting differences, here's a closeup of the three necklaces:

Closeup of Three Necklaces

Returning to one of the points I made earlier, pearls are not the only beads knotted. Any fine stones can be knotted, and so can crystals. The necklace below is one made from rare Ethyopian opals. Taking a picture of opals is problematical. The colors just don't show like the real thing:

Opal Necklace

One way I can give you an idea of the colors in these opals is to take the above photo into PhotoShop, and remove the white. Then you get this:

PhotoShopped Opals

Looks surreal, doesn't it? But it does show the fire in the opals.
Finally, you might wonder what type of clasps I use on pearl necklaces. You have probably seen these many times. The filigree in the clasp gives a traditional look, and the clasp is one that works even if it unlatches. Losing your pearls, black coral beads, or opals is unlikely.

Clasp

Once I finish a set of designs, I start wondering. What would the pearls look like with the gold crystals and black thread? Would it look better with blue? The 2mm Dorado 2x Swarovski crystals used in the above necklace are not readily available at the moment. That probably has something to do with the price of gold. Which leads me to the last bit of advice I have for jewelry designers: Buy what you can when you can, even before you have a design in mind. There is no guarantee of future supply. That is why I bought all the peacock pearls I found in India, even though I had no idea what I would do with them.

Sunday, October 31, 2010

Farfalle Seed Beads - What to Do with Them?

Farfalle seed beads – what to do with them? These beads are also known as peanuts or bowties. They've been out for a few years, but I haven't seen too many designs that employ them. I've done a few things with them that I'd like to share with you.
Here's a bracelet that is bead crocheted with farfalle seed beads in a green metallic. I finished the ends with gold bead caps and then connected the beaded bracelet to a Stewart Abelman art bead. The farfalle seed beads gave the bracelet a very organic look with lots of texture. Because of the bead crochet stitch, you can roll this one onto your wrist.
Designer Jewelry - bead crochet bracelet with art bead
Another bracelet employed the same technique:
Designer Jewelry - bead crochet bracelet with art bead
Having done a few bracelets with bead crochet, I turned my attention to peyote stitch. I wondered what would happen if I used the larger farfalle seed beads with some 11/0 Czech seed beads. Using odd-count peyote, I did a section of black farfalle seed beads with crystal AB seed beads, and then switched to pink farfalle seed beads for the next section.
Alternating back and forth between the two colors of farfalle seed beads, I ended up with a bracelet with more texture than if I had used the same size 11/0 seed beads. The smaller 11/0 beads were tucked down into the beadwork, creating channels. The bracelet is a little heftier, but still quite flexible. Looking at the bracelet from the side, the crystal beads all but disappeared, and the colors of the farfalles were more pronounced. I liked the effect. Here is the bracelet, then a closeup of the beadwork from above, and then from the side.
Designer Jewelry - Peyote Stitch Farfalle Seed Bead Bracelet

Picture of the bead work from straight above:

Designer Jewelry - Peyote Stitch Farfalle Seed Bead Bracelet
Now, in the next picture, which I took from a side angle, the crystal AB seed beads recede into the bead work, leaving the color of the farfalle seed beads more pronounced. It's difficult to show this affect in pictures – you have to see the bead work itself. I would encourage you to give this a try, because the effect is really very nice.
Designer Jewelry - Peyote Stitch Farfalle Seed Bead Bracelet

I continued my work with the farfalle seed beads. I had a pin that I needed to finish. I wanted to put UltraSuede on the back, and then hide the edges so that you could not see how the pin was finished. I've used several techniques in the past with seed beads. With the new shape of the farfalle seed beads, I wanted to see the possibilities of finishing the edge differently.

Here's what I did: I knotted my thread on the front of the pin and went through the layers of Lacey's Stiff Stuff and UltraSuede to the back of the pin. Then I brought my needle back to the front of the pin picked up a black farfalle seed bead, a lime-colored Delica, and then went back through the farfalle seed bead with my needle and thread, sewing to the back of the pin and placing the thread in position to sew the next bead.

This made a small picot on top of the farfalle seed bead. I lined up the the farfalle seed bead so that one larger end was on the top of the pin and the other larger end was on the backside. I worked in this manner all around the circumference of the pin.

I did not particularly like the way that the beads looked around the pin. The beats were disorganized. This just didn't seem to go with the design of the pin itself. To straightened the beads, I decided to sew between the lime green Delicas, putting another lime green bead between the beads on the top of the farfalle beads. As I came around the curves on each end of the pin, I put two Delicas between the picot beads if it seemed that there would be a gap if I used only one.

By sewing through this outside edge of Delicas three times, the beads aligned, and I found that the top part of the pin had a very nice finish, as did the back side.The longer farfalle beads worked to my advantage to accomplish this. The pictures below show the pin, front and back.


Designer jewelry - Dichroic Pin


Designer jewelry - Dichroic Pin
I am calling this one "The Toucan", as when I look at this piece of dichroic glass, I see a bird. When I took a photograph of the front, I placed one of my lights so that it would give the bird an "eye". The cabochon was a gift from Mona Hair, and was one of her first pieces of dichroic art. I have a brooch converter, and so I can wear this pin as a pendant as well.



Sunday, July 25, 2010

Fixing Design Errors

I had an idea for a necklace that would incorporate several jewelry design techniques: bead weaving, pearl knotting, wire-working, and chain maille. I made the body of this piece using a modified herringbone stitch, with 4 mm cubes, farfaille seed beads, and shocking pink 10 lb test fire line. The mono-chromatic design was to continue with two strands of knotted pearls and crystals, and then terminate with chain maille and a hand-made clasp. For the pendant, I use a simple chain maille weave and handmade14kt gold-filled jump rings to create a short chain. To this I added wire-wrapped crystals and pearls.



Once all the components were completed, I assembled the necklace, put it on, and realized the knotted strands and chain maille sections were much too long. So, what do you do when you have a situation like this?



I removed the knotted pearl and crystal section, reattached the chain maille, and voila! I had the necklace the length I wanted, and it hung perfectly.
Designer Jewelry-Chain Maille Necklace with pearls and sapphires
Here's a closeup of the first pendant made for the above necklace:
Designer Jewelry-Chain Maille Necklace with pearls and sapphires
The next decision was what to do with the pearl strands.



I connected those to a store-bought clasp and created another pendant, somewhat similar to the first one, but shorter, with much fewer crystals and gold dangles added to make a different design. I don’t usually make short necklaces, but I was not going to cut apart the knotted strands and start over. The strands were just long enough, and now I have two pieces designed.

Designer Jewelry-Chain Maille Necklace with pearls and sapphires


This second shorter necklace designed, I call, “To Err Is Human”.

Saturday, July 10, 2010

Modified Necklace

I said I was going to redo a piece. I was going to improve on the design by making chain maille that was just a little smaller in diameter than the focal piece of pearls and sapphires. I finished that last week. Below is a picture of the necklace redone with chain maille.
Designer Jewelry-Chain Maille Necklace with pearls and sapphires
I am still not sure which one I like better. They both are nice. However, I'm going to leave this piece as it is. I used the thin chain I took off the original necklace for a similar piece done with garnets:
Designer Jewelry-Pearl and garnet bead crochet necklace
I stlil have not bought another strand of sapphires, but eventually I will get back to that so I can design a matching pair of earrings.

Sunday, July 4, 2010

Corning Museum of Glass

This past week I took a road trip through New England: New Hampshire of course, Maine, Vermont, New York, just a bit of Pennsylvania, and Massachusetts. I'm sorry I missed Rhode Island and Connecticut, but that's the way the trip went.
One of the museums that I visited was the Corning Museum of Glass. I took over 500 photos of what I saw there, and I thought I would share one of the pictures of beadwork done with what looked to me to be 22/0 beads. This is beaded knitting from the 19th century:




The one I'm talking about is the second piece in from the left, and if you look at the top rim of the goblet you can see a thin line of blue beads. Compare the size of these with the ones used in the piece in the middle with the deer on it. The centerpiece is made with 11/0 beads.

What an incredible piece this goblet is! I have no idea how they got a needle through those beads. They must have used a thread with the end glued into a portion stiff enough to be used as a needle. The whole piece was beaded with those tiny beads, and it's tough to get that many colors to make a flower pattern. Just finding the beads to reproduce this today would be quite the trick.

Sunday, June 13, 2010

Mzuribeads

These fun and lightweight paper beads from Uganda offer several design options. I did this chain maille piece with brass jump rings. After adding Mzuribeads to the bib, the necklace hung properly because the beads did not weigh down the chain maille.

Designer Jewelry - Mzuribead Chain Maille Necklace

A matching pair of earrings is one that is very comfortable to wear.
Designer Jewelry - Mzuribead Chain Maille Earrings

Monday, May 31, 2010

Pattern in the Works

May 31, 2010 - Happy Memorial Day to my USA fans! And hello to everyone else!
I'm designing a new piece, writing up the instructions, and I'm going to publish them. I finished the piece, and I think I can make it better, but first I want to publish the instructions, so I took a picture of the piece as-is. I'll re-do the piece another day, as I think I can improve on the design by making chain maille that is just a little smaller in diameter than the focal piece of pearls and sapphires.
This means there will be before and after photos that will show the design process. And of course... the leftovers from what I take off this piece will become something else. The picture below is before:

Designer Jewelry-Chain Maille Necklace with pearls and sapphires
Who knows? Making writing up the instructions and publishing them won't take all day and I'll get to do the chain maille improvement. However, publishing a pattern that fast would be a first.
I made this piece to match a bead crochet bracelet I made:
Designer Jewelry-Pearl and sapphire bead crochet bracelet
I have used every sapphire from the strand I bought, so if I am going to make matching earrings (of course I am!), I will have to buy another strand of sapphires.

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